HRV for Elite Climbing Performance with Aman from Beast Fingers
Aman Anderson, Head Coach
Founder of Beast Fingers Climbing, 2015
Beast Fingers Climbing, owned and founded by Aman Anderson in 2015, focuses on producing data-driven products that stimulate strength and recovery. To bring to not only climbers, but all those who are seeking stronger hands and fingers, tools that will work and will be loved.
At Beast Fingers Climbing, we have sought to build into our products and future products an ecosystem that supports adaptability and progress. We strive to design the best, well-thought finger and hand training and recovery tools that yield results.
Anderson, originally from Florida, studied health sciences and nutritional therapy at Hartland Institute of Health and Education. Interestingly enough, He has worked in the design field for 10+ years, and has been an avid rock climber for 8 years. After moving from Washington, DC, where he worked as an user experience and interface designer for Environmental Working Group, he moved to Colorado to pursue his dream of bringing Beast Fingers Climbing to life, uniting all his talents in health science, sports and design to make products that work.
Website(s): Beast Fingers Climbing
Episode Resources and Links
In This Episode
1:30 Welcome and intro to Aman and Beast Fingers!
5:30 Using HRV frequency analyses to predict climbing performance
9:00 Changes in HRV helped improve climbers’ sleep and health
13:00 The importance of understanding non-training stress
17:30 Recovery methods when athletes show low HRV
21:00 Aman’s work with HRV-guided breathing for anxious folks
31:00 How Aman came to HRV and started to use it
36:00 Dealing with athletes whose HRVs are innately high
42:30 Aman’s timescale when measuring HRVs
43:30 Other biomarkers tracked by Aman
52:00 Climbers’ remarkable strength
1:01:00 The results of Aman’s research: the Grippul